FAQ

Browse the Puppies page, choose a puppy or litter you would like to learn about, and contact La-Shana Francom for availability and next steps. Review the Puppy Contract before committing; ask La-Shana for its password.

Start with each current litter’s page for its breed or mix and its parents. Our education guides discuss Goldendoodles, and our stud program includes Poodles and other listed dogs. Availability changes, so ask La-Shana which puppies best fit your household rather than relying on a general breed label.

Our usual planning point is around eight weeks, but the individual litter’s confirmed take-home date and your agreement govern pickup. Check the litter page and confirm with La-Shana before arranging travel.

Ask for the named parents’ actual results and clearances. A commercial DNA panel does not replace hip, heart, eye or other clinical screening. GANA’s standards explain the different kinds of testing to ask about. For puppy matching contact La-Shana; stud questions go to Taegan Labrum. This reference is educational and is not a claim of GANA membership or certification.

Use Puppy Contract under Other in the menu. Ask La-Shana for the password and read the agreement carefully; this FAQ does not change its terms.

Your puppy’s send-off is designed to make the first days easier:

• Training treats: made in-house by our team using meat from a local meat locker.
• Puppy Pal comfort toy: a familiar comfort item for the move away from littermates.
• Small bag of food: our original guide lists Taste of the Wild Pacific Stream Puppy.
• Poop bags: one roll for those first outings.
• Puppy bandana: a first accessory from our Hankie line.
• Health records: deworming and vaccination dates, including the first vaccination recorded around 7 weeks.

Confirm the current contents and exact food with La-Shana before pickup. Our original care guide also mentions a Minky Couture blanket; ask whether one is included with your puppy.

The original Utah Doodles feeding plan lists Taste of the Wild Pacific Stream Puppy Recipe with Smoke-Flavored Salmon, with ⅓ cup, three times daily. It names IFA, Tractor Supply, Chewy and Amazon as places to find it. That serving is a starting point from our guide, not the right prescription for every puppy: age, expected adult size, calories per cup, body condition and growth all matter.

The guide also lists Kirkland Signature Nature’s Domain Small Breed Salmon & Lentils (Costco, pink bag), described there as made by the same manufacturer. A shared manufacturer does not make two recipes nutritionally interchangeable. Check the current bag’s nutritional adequacy statement for growth and your puppy’s expected adult size; ask your veterinarian before switching.

Use measured meals rather than all-day grazing. You may offer a meal for about 15 minutes, then pick up leftover food and record appetite. Keep fresh, clean water available; do not remove water after meals as a potty-training shortcut. VCA explains how meal frequency, growth needs and water access fit together. Contact your vet promptly if a young puppy refuses food, becomes weak or seems unwell.

The previous guide suggested an egg every other day or daily biotin for the coat. A complete, balanced growth diet is the foundation; do not add a routine supplement without veterinary advice. If your veterinarian approves egg as a treat, offer a little fully cooked, plain egg, without frying fat or seasoning, and count it among the day’s extras. VCA explains why supplements for growing pets need individual guidance.

Our original site describes RDI, the in-house raw blend, as 80% beef muscle meat, 10% secreting organs (liver, kidney and spleen), and 10% bone, including bone meal and bone dust. It lists chicken-free, pre-mixed portions with no additives or preservatives, packed in 2 lb or 5 lb chubs in 40 lb boxes. The listed service area is Utah, with pickup in Provo and Salt Lake City, flexible scheduling, a “Pick Up Now” option and pickup reminders. For current availability and the portion tool, see feedraw.dog; confirm details with La-Shana.

Start on day one with a small, supervised area and a predictable routine. Take your puppy to the same toilet spot after waking, meals, drinking, naps and play, and before bedtime. Our original guide suggests hourly opportunities and a check 10–20 minutes after eating, drinking or rough play; some puppies need to go sooner, so watch for sniffing, circling or sudden restlessness rather than waiting for the clock.

1. Go out together, on leash where appropriate, to your chosen safe spot.
2. Wait quietly and use a simple cue such as “Go potty.”
3. Reward immediately after they finish, while you are still outside.
4. Supervise indoors, and clean accidents thoroughly with a pet-safe enzymatic cleaner.

Do not punish accidents. A crate can help only when your puppy is comfortable in it and receives enough breaks; it cannot create bladder control they do not have yet. AKC’s housetraining guide explains schedules, rewards and troubleshooting.

A collapsible wire kennel is sturdy and easy to move; the original guide links to this example and notes that Ross or TJ Maxx sometimes have lower-priced options. Choose room to stand, turn and lie down comfortably, using a divider as your puppy grows.

Leave the door open at first, reward voluntary exploration, then practice a few calm seconds with the door closed before gradually building time. Never use the crate as punishment. A light cover may help some puppies, but keep airflow clear, prevent overheating and keep fabric out of reach. Use blankets or a Puppy Pal only if your puppy will not shred or swallow them. Remove collars and harnesses before crating to reduce snagging risk, and provide water safely.

A blanket can make a crate cozy, but it is not worth a swallowing hazard. If your puppy panics or tries to escape, stop and get professional help rather than forcing them to “cry it out.” AKC explains gradual, reward-based crate training and when not to crate.

Keep the first evening simple: a little gentle play, a calm wind-down, one final potty break, then a safe sleeping spot close enough that you can hear your puppy. A familiar Puppy Pal may help if it can be used safely. Plan overnight toilet breaks instead of expecting an eight-week-old puppy to sleep through.

The original site suggested picking up food and water two hours before bedtime. Schedule the last meal sensibly, but do not routinely withhold drinking water to force overnight dryness; ask your veterinarian about an individual plan if there is a medical reason to change access. Some whining is normal during adjustment, but check for toileting, temperature, discomfort and distress. Respond calmly and keep night potty trips quiet. Fresh water should always be available. AKC explains what crate vocalizations can mean.

Arrange a veterinary visit within a week of coming home, sooner if your contract or your puppy’s condition calls for it. Bring the take-home health records, which list vaccine and deworming dates. Our original guide records a first Nobivac vaccine at 7 weeks and mentions later appointments at 11 and 15 weeks, with rabies at 15 weeks.

Do not assume that timetable completes every puppy’s protection. AAHA recommends parvovirus revaccination at 2–4 week intervals until older than 16 weeks, with 18–20 weeks preferred in higher-risk settings. Your vet should review the exact products, dates, local rabies requirements and other needed vaccines and parasite prevention.

Contact a veterinarian urgently for repeated vomiting, bloody diarrhea, marked lethargy, trouble breathing or inability to eat or drink. Puppies can deteriorate quickly; a care guide is not a substitute for an examination.

Socialization is about feeling safe, not meeting the largest possible number of dogs. Our original guide describes Puppy Culture work beginning during weeks 1–4. Continue with gentle handling, household sounds, different safe surfaces and calm introductions at your puppy’s pace.

One vaccination is not a permission slip for dog parks or high-traffic pet areas. Ask your veterinarian how to balance early positive experiences with local infection risk. Carrying your puppy to observe the world, meeting healthy known dogs in clean private spaces, and a well-run puppy class when your vet approves can be useful options. Back off if your puppy freezes, hides or avoids the situation; let them watch from farther away. AKC explains why early, gradual, positive socialization matters.

The original guide uses five minutes per month of age, twice a day: about 15 minutes per session for a three-month-old. Treat this as a rough conversation starter, not a required target or a scientific guarantee for every size of Goldendoodle.

Choose short, self-paced sniffing, gentle play and tiny training sessions with plenty of rest. Stop when your puppy slows down, sits or looks tired. Avoid forced jogging and repetitive jumping while they are growing; your veterinarian can advise when their body is ready. AKC emphasizes individual size, development, pace and both mental and physical enrichment.

Make the task easier before asking again. Say a cue such as “Sit” or “Here” once, reward a small success, and practice somewhere quiet before adding distractions. A few enjoyable repetitions beat a long, frustrating lesson. Use treats from the take-home bag if they suit your puppy, subtracting training calories from the day’s allowance.

Often a puppy needs sleep, a potty break or a simpler setup, not a firmer voice. If behavior changes suddenly, check for discomfort with your vet. For practical support, ask La-Shana about Puppy Plus. More Utah Doodles video tips are on TikTok @utahdoodles.

Chewing is normal puppy behavior. Puppy-proof the space, put shoes and cords out of reach, supervise, and offer appropriately sized puppy-safe rubber toys. When your puppy grabs something unsuitable, calmly interrupt, trade for a safe toy and praise the choice you want.

Our earlier guide called this the “one-toy rule.” The useful idea is consistent redirection—not that puppies must own only one toy. You can rotate several safe textures and enrichment toys. A tooth-cleaning toy may offer enrichment, but it does not replace brushing or veterinary dental care. Avoid bones and antlers as routine puppy chews: very hard items can fracture teeth or cause intestinal injury. Cornell explains safe chewing and why brushing matters.

Small, appropriately prepared pieces of apple (without core or seeds), carrot or celery can be occasional snacks if your puppy tolerates them. Size pieces to reduce choking risk and count treats within a balanced daily diet. Our original guide also listed raw meat, bones and antlers; those are not our default puppy recommendations here because of pathogen, tooth-fracture and obstruction risks. Read WSAVA’s raw-food risk statement. See Cornell’s chew safety advice.

Beef Bites Training Treats are from our sister company, Breeding Empire. The team’s original story describes more than a decade of breeding experience and over a year developing a soft, training-size recipe. The listed ingredients are beef, beef liver, salt, molasses, smoke flavoring, potassium sorbate, glycerin, fish oil and rice flour. The original copy describes salmon oil and no garlic powder; check the current label rather than assuming a formula has stayed unchanged. Because molasses contains sugars, we do not repeat the old “no sugar” claim.

Goldendoodles can have straight, wavy or curly coats, and shedding varies with genetics. “Hair, not fur” is not a reliable guarantee of low shedding or freedom from allergies. GANA explains how furnishings, coat genetics and individual allergy responses matter. Even a low-shedding coat can mat badly without maintenance.

Our original care routine says grooming introductions begin at 4 weeks. Continue gently at home: reward a brush touching the coat, handling of feet, and brief combing, rather than waiting for the first salon appointment.

• Brush 3–5 times weekly: use a slicker brush followed by a metal comb through to the skin without scraping it. Some dense coats need daily attention, especially behind ears, under legs and wherever a harness rubs.
• Baths: the original blog suggests every 4–6 weeks unless dirty; the FAQ says as needed and no more often than every two weeks. There is no single interval for every skin type. Use gentle puppy-safe shampoo and ask your vet or groomer to set the routine.
• Drying: use an absorbent towel and gentle, controlled airflow. The original guide recommends a high-velocity dog dryer to shorten drying and reduce tangling, but introduce the noise gradually, avoid eyes and ears, and never use hot air or leave a puppy unattended.
• First full groom: the original target is around 16 weeks. Arrange an earlier introduction with a puppy-experienced groomer when your veterinarian considers the environment and vaccination status appropriate; vaccine protection is not automatically complete at 16 weeks.
• Ongoing trims: plan roughly every 6–8 weeks, adjusted for coat and lifestyle. A Face, Feet, Fanny (FFF) trim between full appointments can keep things tidy.

Tell the groomer it is your puppy’s first visit so they can go slowly. Scissors near the face, paw pads or sanitary area can injure a wriggling puppy; use a professional rather than attempting delicate trims before you have hands-on instruction. Never pull or cut out tight mats against the skin.

Our original guide names Angry Orange and Rocco & Roxie Stain & Odor Eliminator for accidents, a collapsible wire kennel, grooming scissors, a beginner grooming kit, an absorbent towel and a high-velocity dog dryer. Follow cleaner labels, keep your puppy away during cleaning and drying, and never mix products. For delicate grooming, professional help is safer than experimenting with sharp tools.

Find the full Puppy Essentials checklist or the original Utah Doodles Amazon list. Some original supply links may be Amazon affiliate links. You do not need every gadget on day one; safe basics and a plan matter more.